Sushi Ishikawa

The chef of this omakase restaurant has worked in the city’s sushi scene for nearly two decades, paying his dues as the sushi chef at Morimoto, executive chef at (the now-shuttered) Geisha, and, most recently, as executive sushi chef at O Ya. At Sushi Ishikawa, there are just 24 seats, with 12 primo slots at the counter and the rest at tables with two menus offered, And Pham is going beyond raw fish — what’s served will change consistently, but expect the likes of black abalone with mushroom soup, hairy crab, and octopus with green-tea salt. — Chris Crowley