In the Yangtze River Basin, the trackman is an indispensable scenery. After pulling the fiber, they set up rocks at the riverside, picked up dry firewood, set up a crock, scooped a few scoops of river water, and put seasonings such as wild vegetables, sea pepper, and pepper. Everything is taken from the ground, and it is eaten swiftly. The fragrance is tangy. It is both fruit belly and cold and dampness. It is a unique way of eating that has been passed down for hundreds of years. This is the origin of Mala Tang.